Bearing Removal

Palm Plate

1. Remove Palming Plate by lifting the tab and  unscrewing the 
   Turn Key Dial

2. You will find the bearing in the center of the brake drum. It is held in place by a small, 5-sided, fine wire retainer (BNT0032). Carefully remove the fine wire retainer as follows:

Precautions

• Place your index finger over one side of the retainer opposite the opening to keep it from flying off.
• Perform this entire operation inside a large, clean plastic bag.

2. Use a small screwdriver (like a jeweler’s screwdriver) to remove the retainer. Start at one end and work around the retainer.
3. Turn the Palm Plate over and tap gently on a hard surface. The bearing should fall out easily.
4. If not, you can make an extraction tool from a paper clip. Straighten a couple of inches of the clip, and then bend a 1/8” long in the end. Insert the bent end into the hole in the bearing and pull it out gently.
3. Here's what you'll find inside. The round black fiber shim (BNT0664) goes under the bearing. Turn the shim over or replace if it's dimpled.

Cast Cap

1. Carefully unscrew the black Cast Control Cap
2. Remove the tapered spring.
3. Remove the bearing.

Note the large amount of excess grease there is on the cast cap. 

Here's what it looks like when it's disassembled. You can easily see all the excess grease in this picture. The small black rubber shim (BNT0802) is located UNDER the copper shim (BNT0803) in the cast cap. If the copper shim is dimpled, simply flip it over. Replace as needed -- they are only 10¢. 

 Third bearing

There is a third bearing on the spool shaft located behind the drive pin. Do not try to remove this bearing, as you may damage the pin or bend the spool shaft. Either of these will require replacement of the entire spool assembly at a cost of $30. This bearing will be flushed in place.

Flushing

1. Place the two loose bearings in a small container. The cap from a 2-liter pop bottle works great. Cover the bearings with Lighter Fluid (naptha) and let soak for 10-15 minutes.
2. After soaking, let the bearings dry on a paper towel. Tap the flat side of the bearing on the towel to displace excess solvent. Let air dry 20-30 minutes.
3. While the bearings are soaking, flush the spool shaft bearing as follows:
1. Hold the spool vertically with the bearing up.
2. Squirt lighter fluid on the flat side of the bearing.
3. Pour excess out of the end of the spool.
4. Repeat B” and “C” several times.
5. Tap out the excess solvent and let air dry 20-30 minutes.

Check for Smoothness

1. Place dry bearing on the tip of a wooden lead pencil. Hold the outer race with the thumb and forefinger of one hand while turning the pencil slowly with the other hand. You should not feel any roughness.
2. Give the bearing a spin. It should spin freely. If not, repeat the flushing procedure and try again.

Lubing with Yellow Rocket Fuel (YRF)

1. Apply ONE (1) DROP directly from the YRF bottle to each bearing. Allow to sit for 5 minutes or so to let the oil migrate into the bearing.
1. There are three visible parts of a ball bearing. The inner ring with the hole in it is called the Inner Race. The outer ring is called the Outer Race. The flat metal piece between the races covering the balls is called the Shield.
2. Place the oil at the point where the Shield meets the Inner Race.
2. Place bearing on the tip of a pencil and turn pencil to coat all balls with oil. The spin to be sure the bearing spins smoothly and that there is no noise.
3. If it does not spin smoothly, repeat the flushing and lubing procedure. If still not smooth, the baring usually needs to be replaced.

CAUTION: Go gently with the YRF. A little bit goes a long ways. If you add too much YRF, you will slow the bearing down considerably and you will not get the casting performance you desire. Additionally, any excess oil will be slung off the bearings during the first few casts and can contaminate other parts of your reel.

Good luck & Good Fishing -- Jim Johns, Heartland Tackle Service - The Best Reel Service in the Heartland!